As well as the South West Coast Path, the area is home to other long-distance walking routes: the Two Moors Way which runs between Lynmouth on the north Devon coast and Ivybridge in South Devon, crossing Exmoor and Dartmoor; the Tarka Trail which includes walking and cycle routes around Exmoor and the North Devon coast associated with the Tarka the Otter novel; and the Coleridge Way which links sites across Exmoor and the Quantock Hills associated with the poet.
On Tuesday the forecast looked good so we decided on another garden visit. This time it was the magnificent Tapeley Park, near Bideford. A first visit for us.
The car park has fabulous views over the estuary, but we were advised a walk to the monument would trump these. So, following a spot of lunch in the lovely café, off we set along the field path, aiming for the structure we could see a short distance away.
After 10 minutes walking and passing a few people, who were heading back, we could see the views opening out and the monument within easy reach.
Then suddenly, without warning, a moderately cloudy sky turned very angry, the views disappeared, and the heavens opened! With no shelter in sight we turned back towards the house. Although we had had the foresight to bring umbrellas, these were no match for the horizontal rain which was now lashing us! Initial laughter at our predicament soon turned to a steely determination to get to the relative shelter of the woods.
Then just as it began, it stopped, leaving us wet through on the windward side. The now sunny sky began to steam the water out of our clothing and a quick visit to the toilets to use the hand dryer decided us not to abandon our visit as there was much we still wanted to see.
Highlights on this visit were definitely the wisteria, the extensive walled vegetable garden and the permaculture garden with all its herbs and lush planting. Do not miss the sensational red manuka myrtle bushes!
We are resolved to return on a, hopefully, drier day in the summer.
Last week, we took a trip down to Lynmouth for the afternoon. It was the antidote we needed to a very busy week. Although the sun was shining, there was still a chill in the air, so we wrapped up warm. We sat on the Esplanade for well over an hour watching people come and go. Some just enjoying the sights and sounds of the village, others who had been on one of the many local walks and were ending the day in Lynmouth and some enjoying delicious local fish and chips – the gulls hovering overhead, waiting for any leftovers. We noticed how vibrant the colours were, a real feast for the eyes. The fresh new green of the trees coming into leaf, the bluest of skies which was reflected onto the sea, the sun picking up the colours of the hills at Countisbury and Foreland. We came away feeling happy, relaxed and motivated. Just what the Dr ordered.
Visit Lynton & Lynmouth website
Lynmouth Harbour
Lynmouth to Foreland
Exmoor Ponies
Exmoor is a unique place shaped by people and nature over thousands of years and is recognized as one of the UK’s finest landscapes. Large areas of open moorland provide a sense of remoteness and tranquillity rare in southern Britain. Spectacular coastal views, deep wooded valleys, high sea cliffs and fast flowing streams all combine to form a rich and distinct mosaic. Click here to link to a short video of the National Park.
The South-West Coastal Path runs through the area and there are many other walks in and around the area.
Exmoor ponies roam freely on the moor. You can see them at close quarters at The Exmoor Pony Centre at Dulverton. Started in 1998, its aim is to work to conserve and promote the welfare of this rare breed pony.
Below are some videos provided by the South West Coast Path Association showcasing some of the wonders of Exmoor:
English
Nederlands
Deutsch
Lynton
Known by the Victorians as Little Switzerland, the twin towns of Lynton and Lynmouth offer a unique visitor experience including a craft centre and cinema, many shops, galleries, cafes and restaurants.  They are linked by a cliff railway. Established in 1888, this water-powered lift takes passengers up and down the cliff between the towns. It uses no power other than water from the River Lyn to run it.
Valley of Rocks
The Valley of Rocks is a dry valley that runs parallel to the coast about half a mile west of Lynton. It is noted for its herd of goats, its geology and its stunning views.
Waterfall at Watersmeet
Standing at Watersmeet some 2,300 years ago you would have seen smoke rising from the hilltops, a sign of people living close by. Two fortified farmsteads known as Myrtleberry North and South camp provided a protected home.
Thatched round houses were lived in by Iron Age people and their animals. The village would have been surrounded by ramparts and steep-sided hills. Whilst not much evidence remains, the views are stunning from these now-scheduled monuments and well worth the climb.
Watersmeet is surrounded by 2000 acres of estate and is a dramatic river gorge clothed with ancient woodlands. At the meeting place of the East Lyn River and Hoar Oak Water stands Watersmeet House. Built in 1832 as a fishing and hunting lodge for Walter Stevenson Halliday, it is now a haven for many visitors. Originally a fishing lodge and romantic retreat, with connections to the romantic poets, since 1901 it has been a tea room. There are many paths leading along the riversides and up the valley sides to Lynmouth, Rockford and Countisbury.
Look out for otters, red deer, buzzards, dippers, herons and a variety of flowers and insects. You may spot the local whortleberry, a small bluish-black berry often used to make jam. Like a wild bilberry, it grows on shrubs from July to August.
A short walk upstream from Watersmeet House is Ash Bridge, a tranquil spot surrounded by crystal-clear waters and shady ancient woodland. Look out for dippers bobbing on the rocks, and if you’re lucky, the salmon that come here to breed.
For the more adventurous, canoeing is possible on the East Lyn River from Watersmeet House down to Lynmouth between 1 October and 31 March if there’s enough water.
Other places of interest
Other attractions in the area include the historic villages of Clovelly with its steep cobbled streets and picturesque harbour, Porlock, Porlock Weir and Selworthy with its pretty thatched cottages. Combe Martin is reputed to have the longest high street in England ending at a picturesque cove. Ilfracombe offers an historic and picturesque harbour, interesting coastline and beaches around the town. It is the nearest sizable town to Martinhoe Cleave and has a theatre as well as shops, galleries and restaurants. For beaches, Woolacombe offers a large sandy award-winning beach (voted best in UK in 2023) which is popular with surfers, body-boarders and families.  Combe Martin has two intimate family-friendly beaches. Lee bay near Morthoe offers a real smugglers cove beach with rock pools. If you wish to venture further afield, there is an open-top bus service from Lynmouth to Minehead, which boasts a wonderful long flat sandy beach, a charming harbour, a bustling town with Independent shops and cafes and heritage attractions. From there you can also visit the towns of Watchet and Dunster.
