Sunday walk to Morte Point

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Last week we went in search of the sunshine and armed with our tea-making equipment and a picnic we made our way to Mortehoe and Morte Point. Mortehoe is now a sleepy village but was once known for the wreckers and smugglers who worked along this coastline. Although we didn’t visit them on this occasion, there are 2 excellent pubs – The Chichester Arms and the Ship Aground, where you can enjoy good food and drinks after a long walk along the coastal path. There are also a couple of excellent cafes and takeaways including the National Trust owned Town Farmhouse, a 19th-century building which is open as an Eco-Focused Guesthouse and Tea Rooms. Also, the nearby Barricane Beach Café serving a range of classic café snacks as well as their famous Sri Lankan curry.

At Morte Point, you’re welcomed with a far-reaching view across North Devon’s spectacular coastline. Extending from Morte Point and out beneath the water are the deadly ‘devil’s teeth’ rocks which have caused many shipwrecks over the centuries. On the day of our visit, the wind was strong and the sea was rough. It is easy to see how so many ships met their end here.

Just around the corner, we were lucky enough to spot 5 Atlantic grey seals who were enjoying the swell of the sea and the crashing waves. One was lying on its back looking directly at us, as though to say come and join us. No chance of that! It is times like that I wished I had a really good camera with me as it would have been a perfect photo opportunity.

As is common in North Devon, you look one way and there are amazing cloud formations, look the other way and there is blue sky and sunshine. Morte Point didn’t fail us on our visit as you will see from the photos. As you round the corner at Morte Point you see the wonderful view across to Woolacombe which lays claim to an award-winning flat golden stretch of sand and coastline popular with boarders and surfers.

Morthoe and Woolacombe are our happy places where we go to unwind and relax (just like the sheep!). It’s great that it is only a short drive from our home and our cottages. We would definitely recommend a visit.

National Trust Website – Mortehoe

: Coast Path

: Relaxing Sheep

: Cloudy Skies Morte Point

: Blue skies at Morte Point

Tapeley Park – a visit to remember

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Tapeley Estuary View

On Tuesday the forecast looked good so we decided on another garden visit. This time it was the magnificent Tapeley Park, near Bideford. A first visit for us.

The car park has fabulous views over the estuary, but we were advised a walk to the monument would trump these. So, following a spot of lunch in the lovely café, off we set along the field path, aiming for the structure we could see a short distance away.

After 10 minutes walking and passing a few people, who were heading back, we could see the views opening out and the monument within easy reach.

Then suddenly, without warning, a moderately cloudy sky turned very angry, the views disappeared, and the heavens opened! With no shelter in sight we turned back towards the house. Although we had had the foresight to bring umbrellas, these were no match for the horizontal rain which was now lashing us! Initial laughter at our predicament soon turned to a steely determination to get to the relative shelter of the woods.

Then just as it began, it stopped, leaving us wet through on the windward side. The now sunny sky began to steam the water out of our clothing and a quick visit to the toilets to use the hand dryer decided us not to abandon our visit as there was much we still wanted to see.

Highlights on this visit were definitely the wisteria, the extensive walled vegetable garden and the permaculture garden with all its herbs and lush planting. Do not miss the sensational red manuka myrtle bushes!

We are resolved to return on a, hopefully, drier day in the summer.

Tapeley Park Gardens website

: Tapeley through the arch

: Tapeley The Toot

: Tapeley Manuka Bush

: Tapeley Estuary View

: Tapeley House

Bideford cream tea Gardens Historic lunch North Devon permaculture garden Tapeley Views walking walled vegetable garden Wisteria

A visit to Marwood Hill Gardens

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We’ve recently had family staying with us which has given us the excuse to relax and have some days out.

On Monday we visited one of our favourite local attractions, Marwood Gardens, near Ilfracombe. Marwood is a short drive from Martinhoe Cleave Cottages and is always a delight to spend time visiting.

Created by Dr Jimmy Smart VMH in the late 1950’s the gardens are a wonderful haven in which to relax and enjoy the impressive collections of plants, shrubs and trees and experience the views and peaceful atmosphere.

The lakes and stream-side planting forms the centre of this garden. In particular, the display of astilbes will take your breath away in Summer. Paths meander through the garden and there is plenty of interest to see at any time of the season. During our visit the wisterias were magnificent giving off an intoxicating scent as we walked under the pergolas near the entrance.

There is a great cafe which overlooks the garden with both indoor and outdoor seating. A stop here for lunch, or just afternoon tea and scones is a must … followed by a mooch around the plant sales!

Marwood Hill Gardens

: Geese at Marwood

: Wisteria at Marwood

: Lake at Marwood

: Flower beds at Marwood

Astilbe cream tea dogs welcome Gardens Ilfracombe Marwood National Astilbe collection North Devon Wisteria

An afternoon in Lynmouth

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Last week, we took a trip down to Lynmouth for the afternoon. It was the antidote we needed to a very busy week. Although the sun was shining, there was still a chill in the air, so we wrapped up warm. We sat on the Esplanade for well over an hour watching people come and go. Some just enjoying the sights and sounds of the village, others who had been on one of the many local walks and were ending the day in Lynmouth and some enjoying delicious local fish and chips – the gulls hovering overhead, waiting for any leftovers. We noticed how vibrant the colours were, a real feast for the eyes. The fresh new green of the trees coming into leaf, the bluest of skies which was reflected onto the sea, the sun picking up the colours of the hills at Countisbury and Foreland. We came away feeling happy, relaxed and motivated. Just what the Dr ordered.

Visit Lynton & Lynmouth website

Lynmouth Harbour

Lynmouth to Foreland

AONB Bristol Channel coast coastline Coleridge Way cream tea Exmoor National Park lunch Lynton & Lynmouth North Devon Sea cliffs SW coast path valley Views walking

Lynton & Lynmouth

The area

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Lynton

Known by the Victorians as Little Switzerland, the twin towns of Lynton and Lynmouth offer a unique visitor experience including a craft centre and cinema, many shops, galleries, cafes and restaurants. They are linked by a cliff railway. Established in 1888, this water-powered lift takes passengers up and down the cliff between the towns. It uses no power other than water from the River Lyn to run it.

AONB Bristol Channel cliff railway coast coastline Coleridge Way cream tea Exmoor National Park Historic Lynton & Lynmouth North Devon Sea cliffs surfing SW coast path tea rooms valley Views walking Woodland

The Valley of Rocks

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Valley of Rocks

The Valley of Rocks is a dry valley that runs parallel to the coast about half a mile west of Lynton. It is noted for its herd of goats, its geology and its stunning views.

The Valley of Rocks Website

AONB Bristol Channel coast coastline cream tea Exmoor National Park geology goats Lynton & Lynmouth moorland National Trust North Devon Sea cliffs SW coast path tea rooms valley valley of rocks Views walking

Marwood Hill Gardens

The area

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Marwood Hill Gardens

These lovely gardens, pictured above, are well worth a visit. They were started by Dr. Smart in 1950’s and are now owned by his nephew who continues to expand them. Dogs are welcome on leads. The tea rooms come highly recommended for both morning coffee, light lunches and afternoon tea.

Marwood Hill Gardens Website

Astilbe cream tea dogs welcome Gardens lunch National Astilbe collection North Devon peaceful tea rooms Wisteria

The Lynton to Barnstaple Steam Railway

The area

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Lynton-Barnstaple Steam Railway

This narrow gauge railway, decommissioned in 1935, now has 2 miles of track between Woody Bay and Parracombe. Volunteers keep several authentic steam engines and rolling stock in working order so that visitors, can enjoy travelling in Edwardian style!

Lynton & Barnstaple Steam Railway website

Barnstaple cream tea Edwardian Exmoor National Park Historic Lynton & Lynmouth narrow gauge North Devon steam engine steam railway tea rooms Woody Bay

Other places of Interest

The area

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Other places of interest

Other attractions in the area include the historic villages of Clovelly with its steep cobbled streets and picturesque harbour, Porlock, Porlock Weir and Selworthy with its pretty thatched cottages. Combe Martin is reputed to have the longest high street in England ending at a picturesque cove. Ilfracombe offers an historic and picturesque harbour, interesting coastline and beaches around the town. It is the nearest sizable town to Martinhoe Cleave and has a theatre as well as shops, galleries and restaurants. For beaches, Woolacombe offers a large sandy award-winning beach (voted best in UK in 2023) which is popular with surfers, body-boarders and families. Combe Martin has two intimate family-friendly beaches. Lee bay near Morthoe offers a real smugglers cove beach with rock pools. If you wish to venture further afield, there is an open-top bus service from Lynmouth to Minehead, which boasts a wonderful long flat sandy beach, a charming harbour, a bustling town with Independent shops and cafes and heritage attractions. From there you can also visit the towns of Watchet and Dunster.