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Posts by Alan Hargreaves

The South West Coast Path

Martinhoe Cleave Cottages

Martinhoe Cleave Cottages are very conveniently located for accessing the Minehead to Combe Martin Section of the South West Coast Path.

At 35 miles long, the section of the South West Coast Path here makes up just over 5% of the entire National Trail. It runs from the Path’s start point at Minehead to Combe Martin in North Devon and has long been praised as one of the main reasons Exmoor was dedicated a National Park in 1954.

When it comes to talking about the Exmoor coast, it really is a story of superlatives. In England and Wales, it holds titles for; the highest coastline, soaring to a heady 433m (1,421 ft) at Culbone Hill, the highest sea cliff with Great Hangman peaking at 244m (800ft) and the longest stretch of coastal woodland between The Foreland and Porlock. Finally, and admittedly this final stat is not unrivalled, the Exmoor coast is home to one of the highest tidal ranges in the world, second only to Fundy Bay in Eastern Canada. Here, the rise and fall of the tides can be as much as 15m (48ft).

To the West of Combe Martin is the North Devon Section of the path.  Most of this section faces out over the Bristol Channel, offering lofty coastal vistas from places like Combe Martin, Ilfracombe, Lee Bay and Morthoe. The golden sands of Woolacombe, Croyde and Saunton Sands lie beyond, offering some of the region’s best surfing. From there discover Braunton Burrows, one of the largest sand dune systems in the British Isles, located in the heart of the North Devon Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty (AONB) and part of the North Devon UNESCO designated Biosphere reserve.

In the centre of the North Devon stretch is the large joint estuary of the Taw and Torridge Rivers, flanked by areas of sand dunes and marshland. The SWCP follows old railway lines around the estuary, crossing the rivers at the towns of Barnstaple and Bideford. The stretch beyond this demonstrates the SWCP’s unique role in linking up coastal communities in places like Appledore, Instow, Bideford, Westward Ho! and the quirky fishing village of Clovelly. The section culminates with one of the great defining headlands on the SWCP, Hartland Point. Here the Path changes from heading east to west, to north to south. It’s character changes with brooding cliffs behind jagged fingers of rock stretching into the Atlantic Ocean.

Other Walking Routes

As well as the South West Coast Path, the area is home to other long-distance walking routes: the Two Moors Way which runs between Lynmouth on the north Devon coast and Ivybridge in South Devon, crossing Exmoor and Dartmoor; the Tarka Trail which includes walking and cycle routes around Exmoor and the North Devon coast associated with the Tarka the Otter novel; and the Coleridge Way which links sites across Exmoor and the Quantock Hills associated with the poet.

The Heddon Valley and Heddon’s Mouth

Heddons Mouth

Heddons Mouth

The Heddon Valley is set in the west Exmoor coast surrounded by towering cliffs and moorland. Designated a Site of Special Scientific Interest, the Heddon Valley is home to a variety of wildlife including otters and the rare high brown fritillary butterfly. The coastal, moorland and valley paths are renowned for their spectacular views and natural beauty.

Just a quarter of a mile from the cottages is the start of the trail to Heddon’s Mouth. A gentle stroll through ancient woodland alongside the River Heddon to where it meets the sea, between some of England’s highest cliffs. You’ll also find a restored 19th-century lime kiln on the beach.

To the east is Woody Bay, a quiet and wooded cove with spectacular views over the Bristol Channel. To the west, the Hangman Hills boast towering sea cliffs and beautiful moorland scenery, offering energetic walking and wonderful views over Combe Martin.

There is a National Trust information centre and tea room, car park and toilets in the Valley, as well as the famous Hunter’s Inn public house.

Sunday walk to Morte Point

Last week we went in search of the sunshine and armed with our tea-making equipment and a picnic we made our way to Mortehoe and Morte Point.  Mortehoe is now a sleepy village but was once known for the wreckers and smugglers who worked along this coastline.  Although we didn’t visit them on this occasion, there are 2 excellent pubs – The Chichester Arms and the Ship Aground, where you can enjoy good food and drinks after a long walk along the coastal path.  There are also a couple of excellent cafes and takeaways including the National Trust owned Town Farmhouse, a 19th-century building which is open as an Eco-Focused Guesthouse and Tea Rooms.   Also, the nearby Barricane Beach Café serving a range of classic café snacks as well as their famous Sri Lankan curry.

At Morte Point, you’re welcomed with a far-reaching view across North Devon’s spectacular coastline.  Extending from Morte Point and out beneath the water are the deadly ‘devil’s teeth’ rocks which have caused many shipwrecks over the centuries.  On the day of our visit, the wind was strong and the sea was rough.  It is easy to see how so many ships met their end here.

Just around the corner, we were lucky enough to spot 5 Atlantic grey seals who were enjoying the swell of the sea and the crashing waves.  One was lying on its back looking directly at us, as though to say come and join us.  No chance of that!  It is times like that I wished I had a really good camera with me as it would have been a perfect photo opportunity.

As is common in North Devon, you look one way and there are amazing cloud formations, look the other way and there is blue sky and sunshine.  Morte Point didn’t fail us on our visit as you will see from the photos.  As you round the corner at Morte Point you see the wonderful view across to Woolacombe which lays claim to an award-winning flat golden stretch of sand and coastline popular with boarders and surfers.

Morthoe and Woolacombe are our happy places where we go to unwind and relax (just like the sheep!).  It’s great that it is only a short drive from our home and our cottages.  We would definitely recommend a visit.

National Trust Website – Mortehoe

Tapeley Park – a visit to remember

Tapeley Estuary View

On Tuesday the forecast looked good so we decided on another garden visit. This time it was the magnificent Tapeley Park, near Bideford. A first visit for us.

The car park has fabulous views over the estuary,  but we were advised a walk to the monument would trump these. So, following a spot of lunch in the lovely café, off we set along the field path, aiming for the structure we could see a short distance away.

After 10 minutes walking and passing a few people, who were heading back, we could see the views opening out and the monument within easy reach.

Then suddenly, without warning, a moderately cloudy sky turned very angry, the views disappeared, and the heavens opened! With no shelter in sight we turned back towards the house. Although we had had the foresight to bring umbrellas, these were no match for the horizontal rain which was now lashing us! Initial laughter at our predicament soon turned to a steely determination to get to the relative shelter of the woods.

Then just as it began, it stopped, leaving us wet through on the windward side. The now sunny sky began to steam the water out of our clothing and a quick visit to the toilets to use the hand dryer decided us not to abandon our visit as there was much we still wanted to see.

Highlights on this visit were definitely the wisteria, the extensive walled vegetable garden and the permaculture garden with all its herbs and lush planting. Do not miss the sensational red manuka myrtle bushes!

We are resolved to return on a, hopefully, drier day in the summer.

Tapeley Park Gardens website

A visit to Marwood Hill Gardens

We’ve recently had family staying with us which has given us the excuse to relax and have some days out.

On Monday we visited one of our favourite local attractions, Marwood Gardens, near Ilfracombe. Marwood is a short drive from Martinhoe Cleave Cottages and is always a delight to spend time visiting.

Created by Dr Jimmy Smart VMH in the late 1950’s the gardens are a wonderful haven in which to relax and enjoy the impressive collections of plants, shrubs and trees and experience the views and peaceful atmosphere.

The lakes and stream-side planting forms the centre of this garden. In particular, the display of astilbes will take your breath away in Summer. Paths meander through the garden and there is plenty of interest to see at any time of the season. During our visit the wisterias were magnificent giving off an intoxicating scent as we walked under the pergolas near the entrance.

There is a great cafe which overlooks the garden with both indoor and outdoor seating. A stop here for lunch, or just afternoon tea and scones is a must … followed by a mooch around the plant sales!

Marwood Hill Gardens

An afternoon in Lynmouth

Last week, we took a trip down to Lynmouth for the afternoon. It was the antidote we needed to a very busy week. Although the sun was shining, there was still a chill in the air, so we wrapped up warm. We sat on the Esplanade for well over an hour watching people come and go. Some just enjoying the sights and sounds of the village, others who had been on one of the many local walks and were ending the day in Lynmouth and some enjoying delicious local fish and chips – the gulls hovering overhead, waiting for any leftovers. We noticed how vibrant the colours were, a real feast for the eyes. The fresh new green of the trees coming into leaf, the bluest of skies which was reflected onto the sea, the sun picking up the colours of the hills at Countisbury and Foreland. We came away feeling happy, relaxed and motivated. Just what the Dr ordered.

Visit Lynton & Lynmouth website

Lynmouth Harbour

Lynmouth Harbour

Lynmouth to Foreland

Lynmouth to Foreland

Meet the owners – James and Alan

A meet the owners section will follow shortly

Exmoor National Park

Exmoor Ponies

Exmoor Ponies

Exmoor is a unique place shaped by people and nature over thousands of years and is recognized as one of the UK’s finest landscapes.  Large areas of open moorland provide a sense of remoteness and tranquillity rare in southern Britain. Spectacular coastal views, deep wooded valleys, high sea cliffs and fast flowing streams all combine to form a rich and distinct mosaic. Click here to link to a short video of the National Park.

The South-West Coastal Path runs through the area  and there are many other walks in and around the area.

Exmoor ponies roam freely on the moor. You can see them at close quarters at The Exmoor Pony Centre at Dulverton. Started in 1998, its aim is to work to conserve and promote the welfare of this rare breed pony.

Below are some videos provided by the South West Coast Path Association showcasing some of the wonders of Exmoor:

English

Nederlands

Deutsch

 

Lynton & Lynmouth

Lynton

Lynton

Known by the Victorians as Little Switzerland, the twin towns of Lynton and Lynmouth offer a unique visitor experience including a craft centre and cinema, many shops, galleries, cafes and restaurants.   They are linked by a cliff railway. Established in 1888, this water-powered lift takes passengers up and down the cliff between the towns. It uses no power other than water from the River Lyn to run it.

The Valley of Rocks

Valley of Rocks

Valley of Rocks

The Valley of Rocks is a dry valley that runs parallel to the coast about half a mile west of Lynton. It is noted for its herd of goats, its geology and its stunning views.

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